Was I Satisfied with My Tour in Nepal?

Traveling has always been my own way of discovering how cultures operate outside of a guide. Overall, in August 2024, I packed my bags, departed from France, with anticipation of living Nepal’s experience. The himalayas, the temples, and the street life all intrigued me prior to going, but nothing could prepare me for what lay ahead of me.

Touching down in Kathmandu was a violent rush of sensation; the chaos of the traffic, the aromas of spices swirling from food stalls, and of course, strangers who seemed to want to help immediately with welcoming smiles. I wandered the lively streets of Thamel (an eclectic area for travelers with every imaginable gear for trekking, tons of colorful prayer flags, and all the handmade items), and street musicians were sandwiched in between the noise of the streets and the sounds of restaurants serving food from all over the world. This city is both global and anchored at the same time. At every turn, there were amazing stories to touch to.

Kathmandu Durbar Square

Then there was the incredible Kathmandu Durbar Square. Surrounded by old palaces and intricately carved wooden temples, I could hardly stand it. The history unfolded manifoldly, with pigeons flying over rooftops. Kings once lived, courtyards still associated with the now ritualistic, and again, statues and sculpture everywhere I looked. It felt entirely foreign from France. As each statue and every door divulged to me, acts of devotion, artistic endeavor, as well as fortitude. Yet, what I was to experience next, that capped my trip, was to participate in Indra Jatra, which is the festival of Nepal.

In 2024, the Indra Jatra festival occurred on September 17th. Even though my trip began in August, I opted to extend my trip just to be there for the Indra Jatra, easily the best decision I made. For that time, all of Durbar square was a cauldron of life, music, reverence, and dancing; the square as a community was tasked with the exhilarating duty of pulling the chariot of the Living Goddess Kumari around the old city.

I was right up against local families and pilgrims; everybody was craning to get a slight view of the young goddess as she came into view, calm and godlike, out of the open end of the chariot. The masked dancers, both fierce and playful, danced as myths have danced in front of Anthropologist’s eyes before, and the waves of drumming, vocal prayers that were chorused, and a sea of color and lights created an energy that felt electric and sacred.

Pokhara

I was outside of Kathmandu, and since I had to leave. I spent a few days in Pokhara – a city of gentle exhale after the charged chaos of Kathmandu. Each morning began by the friendliest water of Phewa Lake with a reflection of the Annapurna range. Living in the water like a dream, shimmering along with the sun. My first time seeing Machhapuchhre, the Fishtail Mountain, glowing orange with sunlight behind it’s pointed symmetrical peak, felt like a naturally vibrant painting; like I have gotten myself stuck in a frame of an art gallery. Although Pokhara had its own energy with boat rides, tiny temples lined up with the lakeside, and hidden waterfalls; there was a gentleness of the city that contrasted so nicely to what it felt like being in Kathmandu celebrating.

Pashupatinath Temple

Visiting Pashupatinath Temple was another vivid experience. This was more than just a pilgrimage site; this was a spiritual space that left me in deep reflection. As I walked along the Bagmati River, I saw rituals concerning both life and death side-by-side – a combination of cremation ceremonies, prayer, offerings, and chants. It created an experience both somber and uplifting. The golden roofs of the temple shimmered in the sun. And there was foreigner prohibition from the main sanctum, to just be in, around, and amongst the temple was incredible.

Boudhanath Stupa

Boudhanath Stupa provided me with a different sense of peace. The immense white dome, with the all-seeing eyes of Buddha, stood tall against the skyline, amidst fluttering strings of prayer flags. I walked around the stupa. And activated prayer wheels, in concert as monks in crimson robes walked the same path, as did locals with small butter lamps. There was something meditative in the slow, steady movement of people circling in silence. As if they stopped momentarily and walked fine line with time. I returned twice while on my travels, attracted to this calmness and energy.

Was I happy with my trip to Nepal when I finally boarded my flight back to France? Absolutely not, does not capture how I felt about it, more like I was fulfilled. Nepal gave me more than I bargained for. It gifted me moments in time that will be in my memories forever. It will be difficult to beat the sheer joy of watching Indra Jatra. I will forever remember the kindness of the people, the chaos blending into serenity, the jaw-dropping landscapes. It all made this trip to Nepal exceptional. Nepal is not a place that you simply visit; it is a place you carry with you long after you leave.