Naryanhiti Durbar. The #1 location if you have limited time.
When I think about my time in Kathmandu, the only thing I focus on is the Narayanhiti Durbar Museum. If you only have a day or two in the city and want to gain a real connection to Nepal’s modern history, this is my number one recommendation.
Although the Palace occupies a central location in Kathmandu, and is not too far away from the busy Lazimpat and Durbar Marg districts. It does not have the most imposing or grand sight from the outside, and is rather unremarkable, which is consistent with what to expect in resolution of the prior notions associated with Kathmandu. Once I passed through the gates toward the interior of the Palace. There was no doubt that I was present and could not possibly reconsider. The experience of just standing in the entrance area was most certainly memorable. The hallway alone had dusty walls and contained all the remnants of an entire monarchy.
The sounds of the cars and motorbikes outside became mere white noise, while it felt like a calm, still weight fell gently around me. The weight was heavy, but it was much richer because of its history. Althoughh the Palace occupies a central location in Kathmandu, and is not too far away from the busy Lazimpat and Durbar Marg districts, it does not have the most imposing or grand sight from the outside, and is rather unremarkable, which is consistent with what to expect in resolution of the prior notions associated with Kathmandu. Once I passed through the gates toward the interior of the Palace, there was no doubt that I was present and could not possibly reconsider. The experience of just standing in the entrance area was most certainly memorable. The hallway alone had dusty walls and contained all the remnants of an entire monarchy.
Although I walked through the site of the Palace. It was somewhat surreal to consider that I was a presence within its storied past. The rooms were as they were everywhere else and preserved, including all the original antique furniture with unreal sparkling chandeliers, long red carpets, velvet chairs. And the photographs of history – kings and queens, lining the walls. If I felt the weight of history upon entering the Palace, the heavier weight belonged to the throne room. The throne room was enormous and not disappointingly ornate in style, uniquely its own. The ceilings were staggering enough in terms of height that I could logically visualize them as being the host site for significant history-making events. It must have contained roles to serve coronations or formal state functions of a government.
For just a moment, I was able to visualize how much energy must have taken place in the room during those celebrations and gatherings. Narayanhiti is both impressive and heavy. Narayanhiti is not only a palace of grandeur, but it is also one of Nepal’s great tragedies. The Royal Palace Massacre of 2001. I could not escape from its history in the rooms of the murder of an estimated 10 royals and family members. I was chilled.
The museum also provides insight into how royalty lived. I am not talking about display rooms. I walked through bedrooms, dining rooms, and private meeting places, where they all existed as originals without intervention. Many palaces around the world can also embody the idea of a regal experience. But you will feel polished and far removed from a lived experience. The royal family left just yesterday. And the furniture, carpets, and photographs were all left as living records of their lives.
When I returned to the streets, I felt different. I was once again awakened by the horns of the car and the sounds of life. Conversations on the streets of Kathmandu, but now with a fuller understanding of the nation of Nepal. Narayanhiti Durbar reminded me of both the beauty and tragedy of monarchy. And also, about the ever-present and everlasting power of the resilient Nepalese people, who travel the country with joy and with sorrow.
If you are in a pinch for time in Kathmandu, don’t do everything in one punch. Take those hours inside of Narayanhiti Durbar | Palace that gives you more than history. It gives you perspective, passion, and a memory that will remain with you well after your visit is through.